No idea what I did but turning it off and on again fixed that. But now I realise that the driver I have can only really power 2 channels at once, so I’ll have to make new animations that don’t stress it to much. Otherwise all good to go. Just got to put it in a box of some sort!
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I’d be really interested in seeing the eye mask you made for this.
Does the tapping give good sync? Another approach would be a simple dial that ramps bpm up or down to set it or fine tune it, or with a toggle switch to give either fine grain or coarse grain control.
Sync is good enough for my purposes! I did consider other interfaces, including fine-tuning buttons/dials, but the key requirement is to be operable with one hand in/on my pocket, by touch, while dancing, while inebriated.
I was going to try and glue/sew/clip the elwire onto a regular masquerade mask, but there’s no glue good enough, and any stitches/clips would perforate the mask so much it would disintegrate.
So instead, I’m stiching the wires together side by side with “inert” wire. This photo just shows the “tack” stitch. I’ll come back later and double-stitch neat radial lines, to keep all the wires parallel. I’m using speaker wire as the “support” wire but I may swap it for something solid core if it’s not stiff enough.
Wow, that’s a lot fancier than the kind of thing I’d like to make.
For glue, I’ve found Paraloid B72 is a wonder glue. It’s a thermoplastic acrylic resin. It can also be diluted down with acetone to be a protective coating a bit like a lacquer or varnish and can be used to help hold friable materials together- it’s used in conservation, and for fossils, etc. It’s clear (unless tinted) and doesn’t discolour and can be removed with acetone. It works great with fabric, ceramic, wood, plastic, stone etc. It’s really easy to work with and is strong enough for most purposes (consider gluing together the broken pieces of a life sized marble statue). It’s not brittle and is more flexible than other adhesives too.
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This is a Hauppauge WinTV USB:
Completely obsolete, so into the ewaste bin go the guts, to be replaced with all my bits:
Inverter at the top, pattern switch on the left, beat clicker in the middle (red microswitch), battery just nestled in a cradle of wire in the middle and then two RJ45s harvested from a dead router for connecting the mask. If anyone has a device that needs 100V AC shot into its network socket, I’ve got you covered. The beat switch is just a flap of the outer case, cut loose on three sides. Makes it easy to press through a pocket but hard to press by accident.
I decided to swap out the speaker wire for some solid core, so I made this jig to get it all bent to just the right shape:
4 evenings left to finish it on time.
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