You can see the tenon is all the way through the beam in this photo, which I think is an easier joint and would be cleaner for someone like me still building their skillset.
Still lots of shaping to do but I’ve got the weight down to about 1200g. It cuts beautifully quickly and nice and straight, with a dead thin kerf.
Dieter Schmidt fine tools. https://www.fine-tools.com/gestell.html Tage Frid reccomends buying a cross cut blade, filing it for rip cut, then using it for all operations. I bought a blade, two handles, two blade holders and some hemp twine.
So which blade did you get 600mm or 700 and what is the idea behind getting a crosscut and changing to rip. Why not just buy a rip?
I have just received my hock blade for the plane I am going to make. I think I am going to make it dedicated to shooting edges on a board and I will tap for a fence to be attached so I can joint edges very easily. I can do it freehand but I like the ease of a fence.
I should point out I am looking for some quarter sawn stock 2 inch thick. I don’t mind laminating the main block. I have some iroko but I will need to do a lot of work to reorient the grain so it’s quarter sawnish. Do you know of any suitable timber?